I spent a glorious week in the Languedoc region of France at the end of May. Here are more of my daily adventures. And YES you can find these wines in the Indy area..

The wake up call rang at 630am. I pulled back the drapes and SUNSHINE and BLUE SKIES gave me a Montpellier Monday morning welcome. So I decided to lace up the sneakers and take a walk about. I followed my Sunday path only today the crowds were different. Businesses were open- merchants selling fresh fruits, vegetables, flowers. Tiny cars whizzed past me offering a diesel perfume as a Monday morning greeting. The busy plaza was vibrant this morning as well but today's occupants were street cleaners (aha..THAT is how they clean up the Shetland pony poop...)and students IPOD'd in on the way to class. Our hotel is in the midst of what is the US equivalent of a college campus. The Ecole Jeffre looks like an ancient prison. And maybe it was, I haven't asked. But the olive, palm and pine trees around the stone building add a touch of leisure to the massive site topped with multiple satellite dishes.

The cafe owners were just setting out tables and chairs but the McDonald's on the square was open.

At breakfast (in the hotel, not McDonalds!) we dined with the director of the CIVL (Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Languedoc) to discuss the new Languedoc AOC system. It's a simple plan to promote quality and awareness of the wines of the region for producers and consumers. But to get there involves a complex path of regulations, label changes and nudging old world thinking producers into the drinking preferences of new world buying consumers. It really is a good idea and the CIVL is being civil about it--no enforcement yet. Instead giving each of the producers in the 18 AOC areas {Appellations Of Controllee-these are areas that the CIVL feels are making the highest quality wines and meet the AOC rules, so they get the AOC OK. Those that do not are labeled Vin du Pays (wine of the area)} time to up their standards and be part of one of 3 classifications- Languedoc AOC, Grand Vins du Languedoc, Grand Crus du Languedoc. This region produces more wine than any other in France, but in the past alot of it was not made well, so Languedoc is still trying to change its "Mouton Noir" persona in Europe. The desire is to create more wines of higher quality and thus higher price point and thus more respect. Or at least for the Europeans. I don't know. And neither did the other reporters at the table. We explained America's love for Two Buck Chuck. "Why not make better wine but instead of jumping the price, increase the awareness and availability?" we asked. No answers yet. But we have 4 more days and a dozen more producers to quiz.

First winery was in the AOC region of Pic Saint Loup at Chateau de Lancyre. This wine is avail in the US and I believe one of my distributors carries it. We dont have it on The Wall as it retails for over $20. But I have to tell you, the wines were excellent.

2010 Ch De Lancyre La Rouviere is made from Rousanne. Bright rich aromas of tropical fruit and white pepper led into lush flavors of banana cream pie.

We tried 7 of their other wines. Each bold, elegant, multi layered. Not all are available in the US. Yet. Then we left the charming stone walled tasting room and trekked to the stone covered vineyards. The view was spectacular. On a hill looking at the mountains, and woods and smelling the herbs and flowers nearby. Southern France is truly beautiful so it's no wonder more and more French are moving to the area. And then we got the story of how the area got its name.

During the time of The Crusades, three soldiers Loup, Clare and Barthelemie were all in love with Gertrude. She couldn't decide, so the 3 went off to fight. When they returned, Gertrude was dead. So each of the men retired to a different mountain top where they mourned their lost love. At nite they would light fires to let the others know they were still alive.... till one nite the fires burned no more. Not in their hearts or on their hills... cue the Edith Piaf CD please...

"Pic" means place, so Loup's mountain looms over the area.

On to lunch at L'Auberge de Cedre. Another charming inn from the 18th century with bright Mediterranean painted tile on the floor. We dined on the veranda with a view of another set of hills and olive trees and rows of roses. Temps in the mid 70's, the warm wind blowing, delightful. First course was a beautiful tartlette- pastry crust covered with a layer of black olive tapenade topped with a layer of sweet, juicy cherry tomatoes in confit. Tres bon!! Main course was a local dish- a beef stew made from AOC beef (they are BIG on organic and local here), carrots, mushrooms in a cilantro herbed sauce. I'm not a beef gal but even I had to admit the meat was so tender it melted in my mouth. A mashed rhutabaga cake along side added a nutty, earthy compliment. Great local bread and several local wines to wash down our mid-day repast.

2009 Chateau de Valflaunes "Pourquoi Pas?"- a very dry, blend of rousanne and marsanne with hints of grapefruit, pineapple and minerality. Three local reds (blends of syrah and grenache)--all very tannic- were tasted as well, none avail in the US and none really worth finding if they were.

On to Domaine Felines Jourdan-- with a female winemaker on a sunny patch of land along the water in the AOC Picpoul de Pinet. The white grape piquepol dominates here. It reminds me of a Vinho Verde with a little more oomph and less effervescence.

The winemaker is Claude Jourdan, a 30 something female who took over the wine making position when her mother, the original winemaker died two years ago. We tasted 2 of the AOC designated whites-- both refreshing, light and easy to drink.

Then we tasted her Vin de Pays-- a rose, a white and a red. These were VERY quaffable and better yet, available in a Stelvin screwcap in the US. The wines that are sold in France get a plastic cork because she says the French just don't like the screwcap. Fortunately her father is an electrical engineer and was able to rig the winery bottling machine so it can work with either the plastic cork of the stelvin closure. What a savings as Domaine Felines Jourdan produces over 180,000 bottles a year.

We tasted the wines on her rooftop patio then drove the rocky road to the coast to get a glimpse of the Mediterranean and the hundreds of oyster farms in the lake waters in front of us. The briny salty smell in the air and squawking gulls made a magnificent musical ending to our day.

But wait. There's more! Back to the hotel with 45 minutes till dinner so what did the girls do?? SHOP! There just happens to be a Gallerie de Lafayette next door- so we went a hunting for "cool" gifts for Tia and Michelles daughters. Mission accomplished and we walked up to the square where I had been yesterday and this morning to dine at Chez Boris- a true bistro. Our host was the marketing director of Val d'Orbieu, the Languedoc's largest negociant/cooperative, Mr Pascal Loridon. Charming, witty, smart and new to this job but not to the wine industry having been with the Bordeaux CIV and Mouton Rothschild before. He asked about our backgrounds and we all had a wonderful conversation not just about wine, but about life, as the parents in the crowd were talking about teenagers and Mr Loridon revealed he has 8 children ranging in age from 7-25. "And yes- I have just one wife and I am the father of them all"- he told us with a smile. Dinner was very bistro like. Simple yet satisfying. We started with a platter of charcuterie, a crock of shrimp and vegetables in broth and a crudite platter with an addictive anchovy dip. Maybe a new item for the MAWS menu.

4 of us chose the rich ravioli stuffed with an artichoke, eggplant filling, baked and topped with a rich, creamy parmesan cheese sauce. Can you say comfort food in French? (Me neither--doesn't matter, it was DELISH!) A fresh white wine, 2009 Domaine de la Prise from Cadieres was crisp and fresh. The red Ancienne Mercerie from Faugeres was an inky blend of syrah/grenache and mouvedre with dark blackberry, mulberry aromas and flavors and a touch of spice. Bien!

We thanked our kind host and walked back to the hotel with satisfied appetites from our first full business day in the Languedoc as the almost full moon overhead glowed its approval as well.

Time to pack as we leave in the morning for Narbonne and more tasting, eating, laughing, sightseeing and shopping. Bonsoir!