Bonjour!

This morning I walked the canal where there are dozens of houseboats parked with people living inside. Think of the downtown Indianapolis canal double wide with houseboats parked on it. And sunshine and 65 degrees surrounding it.

Just when you think it can't possibly get any more beautiful in the Languedoc region you find yet another stunning appellation. This morning we drove to the Saint Chinian appellation to the elegant property of Chateau La Dournie where winemaker/owner Veronique Etienne was joined by another female wine compatriate, Nadia Bourgne of Domaine La Madura. Veronique's 18th century property was enchanting as were her wines. The business has been in the family for 5 generations with the last winemakers being her great aunt's then her mother and now herself. You go girls! We tasted 5 of her wines. Each elegant, multi-faceted and ready to enjoy now. My faves:

2010 Domaine de la Dournie Rose - cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and grenache blend together to give forth bright, bold rich aromas of fresh raspberries with a lush full bodied minerality and lingering wild raspberry flavors. WOW!

2008 Chateau La Dournie "Etienne"- syrah, carignan, grenach. Dense color, herbally nose, earthy, smoky full bodied with notes of slate. Attention "dirty/earthy" wine lovers-- this bottle is for YOU.

Nadia is the sales/marketing manager for Domaine La Madura and her husband Cyril makes the wines. We tasted 5 and all were beautiful, well structured, supple tannins and lingering finishes. Not a loser in the bunch. You could and should find these and drink them now. My fave:

2006 Domaine La Madura "LM" - 25% each of syrah, grenach, carignan, mouvedre. Perfumey, citrusy, fresh nose on this inky black red. Chewy, dark fruit flavors. Velvety smooth. Mmmmmm.

Veronique took us on a walking tour of the domaine. The big back yard is filled with all kinds of trees and bamboo and is just a stone's throw from a river that runs into the not too far away Mediterranean Sea. She took us through the home, that is just used as a visiting place for her family until they can do some renovations. Not sure on what, as the interior was amazing. Multi colored tile floors, huge fireplaces, ornate and sturdy French furniture, an Icon-laden chapel and a winding staircase with handcrafted wrought iron work. Veronique says her great aunts sold the property to her father ONLY if he would allow them both to live in the house till they died. He agreed. The last great aunt died 3 years ago at the age of 94, so obviously none of the electrical or plumbing has been updated, but the charm and warmth of this country home would make a fantastic bed and breakfast. With wine and eggs in the morning of course!

Cyril took us on a tour of his vineyards to see the different soil types and to once again gasp with awe at the spectacular scenery. The air is filled with all sorts of aromas from wild growing thyme, pine trees, olive trees, various flowering and sweet-smelling bushes. And the landscape looks like a patchwork quilt with lots of vineyards and here and there a stone home and barn.

Next stop St Jean-Minervois a teeny tiny twisting road of a town home to several muscat winemakers, including one who is married to a man from Louisville, Kentucky.

Natalie Bojanowski welcomed us with an infectious laugh and glasses of her Muscat de Saint- Jean. The 2009 "naturelle" has a honeysuckle sweetness with notes of white tea. Her husband John would join us later as he was returning from an organic wine tasting event in London. So we settled on the patio to talk about wine while watching her chickens roaming the grass and her son Sasha trying not to act like he really WAS interested in the American strangers.

We then went across the street to lunch at Auberge d l'ecole- a former schoolhouse converted into a rustic, homey inn by a man and woman in their 70's who had come back to the small village alone some 30 years ago, only to meet and fall in love. We still caught them holding hands and smiling at each other lovingly. There MUST be something in the wine here.

We tasted more of Natalie's wines including the crisp, dry, complex 2009 Clos du Gravillas "L'inattendu"- a blend of grenache and macabeo. Crisp, dry, clean with perfumey nose. Was outstanding with our first course, a spring greens salad with FRESH asparagus. Ooolalaa!! Served with freshly baked bread, the tender sweet, nutty asparagus were like heaven on the palate and paired well with the white wine.

The main course was a local specialty: Duck Cassoulet. Baked in an oval crock its a layered dish of beans, duck legs and sausage with a tangy, spicy addictive red sauce and topped with bread crumbs that created a crunch when you put your spoon into the dish to scoop up a bite of the hearty beans and tender, earthy duck. Wow. Here we go again with the French comfort food thing and yes.. we were comforted. Paired perfectly with this was the 2007 Domaine de Gravilles Carignan. The spicy current aromas and flavors were the perfect cut to the richness of the dish.

Fresh strawberries for dessert after we had tasted 3 other wines from nearby producer Le Regal du Loup. Cute labels, lively wines and great with food.

My fave: Le Regal du Loup "Les Trois Petits Cochons"- a blend of alicante, tempranillo, carignan and grenache. It was in EZ drinking fruity red wine Hog Heaven! Squeals of delight from the group as it worked very well with the food and would be fabulous partner to burgers, pizza or pasta.

John B arrived as we were leaving, or we thought we were. He thought we should see his vineyards so we followed him to one of the most breathtaking views of the area yet. Hills of limestone and schist with wild green bushes and flowers surrounded gravel fields dotted with vineyards. It's hard to describe, sort of like a mini grand canyon but more shades of gray and green than red and brown. I'll see if one of my photos turned out. I have been snapping them on my cell phone but with no international service I can't send them anywhere. I will sort thru and find the most decent to post on Facebook when I get home.