Our 14 1/2 hour touring day started at the CVRVV (Commission of Viticulture of Region Vinho Verde). Learned the p's and q's of the area-and got an amazing view of the Douro (DOOR-OH) river which is the building's backyard.

On the road to the northern most part of the Minho (MIN-YOH) region-all day we were a birds eye view from Spain. First stop Adego de Moncao. This winery had an unusual take on the usual grape varieties of vinho verde. They do export to US thru Ideal Imports in Newark, New Jersey. Not impressed by the wines but the hosts were gracious despite speaking very little English.

2010 Branco Vinho Verde was a blend of alvarinho (AL-VUH-REEN-YO) and trajadura(TRAY-JUH-DO-RUH) Tropical fruit notes but overall dull.

2010 Muralhas Branco - same blend but more alvarinho than trajadura. Again perfumey nose with some nose of pineapple, banana and nutmeg...but nothing to write home about...well, OK, I guess I am, but you know what I mean! ha

Next were two 100% alvarinhos-one done in tank the other in OAK. Evidently some of the Portugese like their vinho verde OAKED. We can't figure out why.

The stainless steel offering was smooth with tropical fruit notes and slight residual sugar aftertaste.

The barrel aged bottle was done in NEW American and French oak--and boy could you tell. No way to miss the liquid lumber in this one. ugh.

2009 Muralhos de Moncao Rose - was lifeless and I thought the bottle was corked.

A sparkling alvarinho reserva was toasty and nutty and probably the best of the bunch.

Lunch was much better. We dined at Dona Maria. Very modern with new take on traditional Portugese dishes. Started with assortment of delicious grilled shrimp, bundles of phyllo dough filled with sheeps milk cheese and broa bread and lampreia (LUM-PEER-UH). This fatty eel is only available certain times of the year and a delicacy of the Portugese. A taste test for visitors. In the bowl, this lump of fatty fish looked like a piece of mud in muddy water. It was bathed in vinaigrette and cumin, nutmeg. The astringent red vinho verde wine we had with it DID help cut the oily fattiness-but I can't say that I am a fan. The main dish was delicious. Roasted Rabalo (RUH-BALL-OH). A fish with as many bones and sort of meaty flavor of a catfish. But unlike the Hoosier version it was roasted and not fried. Served with braised greens and carrots and yukon gold-like potatoes. Dessert was poached pears in red wine, flan and custard with cookies.

The Minho (MEAN-YOH) river was in the restaurant's backyard and Spain was on the other side.

Our third sampling of the day was at Provam. Very impressive operation that buys grapes from nine local growers. These wines were classy and consumer friendly, and of course, not yet available in the US. This is part of the problem with the wines of Portugal and one of the reasons our group was there: to promote export/import of the Vinho Verde region wines. Most of the 66 wineries in the region are not open to the public and honestly, are very hard to find. But once you DO find them, the owners are charming. As was the case for our last stop of this day at Quinta de Touquinherias (TOKE-EE-AIR-ISH) A wine hobbyist-turned-winemaker started production here in 1997. His death two years later spurred his wife and oldest daughter to carry on the tradition. Two years after that, the mother dies-and the daughter decides to quit her business/marketing job in the UK and come home to carry on the family business. Clementina de Araujo must be in her mid 30's but her poise and charm make her seem older. She updated the winery and marketing and makes 3 wines-all from alvarinho and trajadura. She tries to keep the style the same as her father made it and also comes as close to being organic as one can. We tasted her wines with dinner.

Adego do Sossego was a charming, casual, restaurant with plenty of "the real" thing. We started with the 08 Touqeinheras Alvarinho 100%. Tasted like an off dry riesling and still VERY alive despite the age. This wine is no longer available. But we enjoyed it with the starters: some sumptuous goat cheeses, more broa bread, blood sausages and pork relish. Pork cheeks, ears, onions, cilantro, vinegar. Actually the pork ears looked and tasted like shiitake mushrooms.

Sampled the 2010 Clemen-a blend of alvarinho and trejadara grapes. Subtle hints of meyer lemon and honeydew melon. Delish with the cheeses and also with the main meal. Bacalhau (traditional salted cod in olive oil, with onions, potatoes and broccoli). I couldn't taste the salt-rather bland ..and well, its cod, so there you go. Also sampled the 09 Touqeinheras 100% alvarinho. Worlds of difference in the youth of this bottle. Fresh, lively, with soft lemon and tons of minerality. Really helped the food.

Dessert was what they called "Heaven in a Cup"-was a yogurt like custard layered with orange infused cake. ( Looked like vanilla wafer/pudding!) Topped with meringue-was yummy. Flan with caramel had a very eggy custard. With this, Clementina had us try her newest and yet to be released wine: A grappa/brandy. She said her father always wanted to make this wine so she had to do it. WOW. Its alvarinho wine that has been distilled. 39 proof. Warm notes of burnt vanilla. Surprisingly smooth-and not too astringent.

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