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Converted from paper version of the Broad Ripple Gazette (v05n09)
Recipes: Then & Now - A Cooking Revolution - by Douglas Carpenter
posted: Apr. 25, 2008

Recipes Then and Now header


A Cooking Revolution

I have just acquired a reprint of the 1896 first edition of the Boston Cooking School Cook Book by Fannie Merritt Farmer. What an eye opener. I have heard for many years this was a revolution in its day and now I see why. It looks like any modern cook book published today.
Some of the really old cook books I have can be difficult to use. The recipes were written in paragraph form with no list of ingredients. They also used no consistent methods of measuring so you have no clear idea of the amounts intended for many of the ingredients. The older cook books are even worse. Often there would be no organization. You might find recipes for cakes, sausages and potatoes all on the same page. And looking for the index to locate the recipe you need, would be an exercise in futility.
But thanks to Ms. Farmer we have a standardized set of measuring spoons and measuring cups. We also have an easily recognizable format for our recipes. We owe this pioneering woman a debt of gratitude for the changes she made to the way our cooking is done today.
Here are some examples of the kind of recipe that could give today's cook a challenge.
These are from a book titled: Home Cookery: A Collection of Tried Receipts, Both Foreign and Domestic by Mrs. J. Chadwick. On page 16 under the category of 'Common Cakes' she has listed these three 'receipts':

Emery Cake
Six eggs, two cups of sugar and two of flour, a piece of butter the size of an egg. Ginger if you choose. Bake thin as sugar gingerbread.
Bowditch Cake
Three pounds flour, one of butter, half a pound of sugar, nine eggs, a little saleratus dissolved in milk.
Dorchester Gingerbread
Eight cups of flour, four of sugar, three of butter, one of milk, one teaspoonful of saleratus. Ginger and salt to taste. Bake very thin.
Not too clear is it? So how hot is the oven? What size pan do I use? And just what size cup do I use to measure the ingredients? Just so you know, the saleratus they used was no more than what we call baking soda.

One of the most popular cook books at the time of the Revolutionary War was by a lady named Hannah Glasse. Her recipe for waffles was pretty blunt and to the point.

To make Whafles: One pound of sugar, one pound of flour, one pound of butter, half an ounce of cinnamon, one glass of rose water; make into balls as big as a nutmeg, and put them in your whafle iron to bake.

Recipes: Then & Now - A Cooking Revolution - by Douglas Carpenter
image courtesy of Douglas Carpenter
Quan


Here is what I used:
1 cup sugar
2 cups flour
1 stick butter
1 teaspoon cinnamon (a lot less than Mrs. Glasse used)
1 teaspoon orange extract (a substitute for the rose flavor in the rose water)
½ cup water

Mix the sugar into the softened butter and stir in the cinnamon. Add the orange extract and the water mixing to blend well. Blend in the flour and cook on a hot, well greased waffle iron.
These were in my opinion more like cookies so I baked some of the batter in the oven to see what would happen. I recommend the waffle iron. The flavor was excellent if eaten without any adornment. Just don't expect them to be like any waffles you know.

Recipes: Then & Now - A Cooking Revolution - by Douglas Carpenter
image courtesy of Douglas Carpenter
Quan


Recipes: Then & Now - A Cooking Revolution - by Douglas Carpenter
image courtesy of Douglas Carpenter
Quan


Recipes: Then & Now - A Cooking Revolution - by Douglas Carpenter
image courtesy of Douglas Carpenter
Quan


Recipes: Then & Now - A Cooking Revolution - by Douglas Carpenter
image courtesy of Douglas Carpenter
Quan


Recipes: Then & Now - A Cooking Revolution - by Douglas Carpenter
image courtesy of Douglas Carpenter
Quan


Recipes: Then & Now - A Cooking Revolution - by Douglas Carpenter
image courtesy of Douglas Carpenter
Quan


Recipes: Then & Now - A Cooking Revolution - by Douglas Carpenter
image courtesy of Douglas Carpenter
Quan


Recipes: Then & Now - A Cooking Revolution - by Douglas Carpenter
image courtesy of Douglas Carpenter
Quan





Douglas Carpenter is an avid recipe and cookbook collector. He has over 400 cookbooks in his library and he has published two cookbooks of locally-collected recipes. He has won sweepstakes and blue ribbons in the Culinary Arts division of the Indiana State Fair. Email your cooking questions to douglas@BroadRippleGazette.com




douglas@broadripplegazette.com
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