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Converted from paper version of the Broad Ripple Gazette (v05n04)
The Wine Scene - by Jill A. Ditmire
posted: Feb. 15, 2008

Wine Scene header

Ice Wine Cometh

Some call it "Angels tears" others "Heaven in a glass". What is it about this non-denominational wine that brings on descriptions of a higher Spirit? Perhaps it is because the entire life or hope of life for a grape to become an Ice Wine is completely dependent upon Mother Nature.
"I believe any year you can produce Ice Wine is a spectacular year, " says Mark Johnson, winemaker at Chateau Chantal in Traverse City, Michigan. "It means that you were able to get your grapes through an entire season without any disease problems"
Mark looks for grapes that can survive 15◦F temps, birds, raccoons, wind, sleet or snow. Those that STILL cling to the vine are the ones he wants.
"It is essentially a 100% natural product. When you taste it you know it's something special", says Johnson.
Thank Mother Nature for the 2007 crop.
"It was the best harvest in 15 years," says Jim Trezise of the New York Wine Grape Foundation.
New York still wines are highly coveted and its Ice Wine maidens are no exception. A dozen vintners take the time and risk to produce this sumptuous wine.
"Heron Hill, Casa Larga, Wagner for Riesling or Vidal Ice Wines. Lakewood does some Native American Ice Wines that are quite good too", says Trezise.
Johnson says his Riesling grape crop was exceptionally healthy in 07. "You need a grape with a relatively thick skin to hang on the vine for such a long time and not shrivel up."
Chateau Chantal is also experimenting with some other unnamed hybrids to blend with its Riesling.
Meanwhile at Chateau Thomas Winery in Plainfield, Indiana, winemaker Nicholas Funke is chilling some Cabernet Franc juice and plans to create a Cab Franc Ice Wine for release in April 2008.
"Currently we sell a Lake Erie Vidal Blanc Ice Wine that was harvested on January 20, 2007 with 39 brix and a residual of 17. The grapes were picked and pressed at 23 degrees." Those numbers are what Funke says creates the rich, delicious, wine with aromas and flavors of apricots and peaches.
Finding that balance means supply and demand dictates the price.
At Chateau Chantal, a one-ton harvest of grapes usually produces 175 gallons of wine. A one-ton harvest of ice wine grapes makes about 40 gallons. A 375ml bottle of Chateau Chantal Riesling Ice Wine sells for $60.00
"It's not always a money making venture but the fact that it is truly unique to the coolest regions of the wine world and the fact that it tastes so darn good make it logical to continue, " says Johnson.



Jill A. Ditmire is an Omnimedia wine specialist, AWS certified wine judge, freelance broadcast journalist and 20+ year home owner in the Warfleigh neighborhood of Broad Ripple. Send your questions and comments to Jill at jill@broadripplegazette.com
Also on INSTAGRAM @jaditmire




jill@broadripplegazette.com
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