With Easter just past, I got to thinking about one of the main ingredients in many recipes: eggs. I did some research, and here is what I found.

The egg, like no other ingredient, has the exceptional ability to alter itself or other dishes. Examples include meringue topping, quiche, custard, deviled eggs, frittata, omelets, eggnog, and noodles. We might say it is one of the most important foods in our kitchen. In nearly every cookbook you will find the egg playing at least a supporting role throughout. Many of our favorite foods would be unrecognizable without the egg. The egg is also a nutritional treasure, containing essential amino acids and a host of vitamins.

Eggs age more in one day at room temperature than in one week in the refrigerator, so keep them refrigerated. When you are making hard-cooked eggs, to make them peel like a dream, let them sit out for no longer than 2 hours before cooking. There is no taste or nutritional difference between white and brown eggs, so it is not necessary to pay the extra money for brown eggs.

Egg size can be somewhat confusing. Which to use? Large and extra-large eggs may be substituted freely for each other in most recipes. The possible exception might be baking recipes that use more than six eggs - in that case, use large eggs. If a recipe calls for a certain size, use whatever is suggested. The smaller sizes are great for making a smaller portion at breakfast.

Unfortunately, the egg has been turned into a villain from a health standpoint - first because of its high cholesterol content, then because of salmonella contamination.

Recent studies indicate the cholesterol in our diet, especially from eggs, may not necessarily cause an increase in blood cholesterol. If cholesterol intake still concerns you try this: substitute some egg whites for some whole eggs, about two to one. For example, instead of using four eggs in a given recipe, use three eggs and two whites, or two eggs and four whites. So we can eat a few eggs a week with a fairly clear conscience.

As for salmonella and eggs, avoid recipes with raw or undercooked eggs. (The recipe for Hollandaise Sauce, below, is well cooked by the hot, melted butter.) The general population should consider eggs safe, and eat them without fear, especially if they have been handled properly. If you need to, try using the pasteurized refrigerated or frozen egg substitute.

One technique when using eggs is called tempering. We use this method to prevent the eggs from cooking too fast, which leads to curdling. When eggs or egg yolks are added to a hot mixture all at once, they may begin to coagulate too rapidly and form lumps. So, stir a small amount of the hot mixture into the eggs or egg yolks to warm them and then stir the warmed egg mixture into the remaining hot mixture.

Some of my favorite egg dishes are deviled eggs, egg salad sandwiches and eggs benedict.

Sauté ham lightly in skillet over medium high heat; keep warm. Poach eggs and toast English muffins. For each serving, butter English muffin; place ham, then a poached egg on top. Drizzle sauce over. Sprinkle with paprika. Makes 2 hearty servings or 4 smaller portions.

Into container of electric blender measure juice, mustard & salt; add yolks. Microwave butter on high in glass measuring cup 1-2 minutes, until hot & bubbly. Turn electric blender to lowest speed and gradually add butter, mixing well until Hollandaise is creamy and thickened.